Winter re-build #3 is underway!!
- Thread starter EHA Racing
- Start date
Sorry I forgot to answer. It's an R302 block with all forged internals and custom Venolia pistons, ported Brodix 225cnc heads and a billet custom grind solid roller cam. 3.4" stroke and 4.105 bore for 360ci.
Haha Thanks.
We have a lot going on with all the cars so I haven't updated much. This engine is almost ready for the engine dyno so I'll update in the next couple weeks on that.
Here are a couple pics at the machine shop and our new shaft rockers and Camshaft innovations cam.
YOU really are the 1BADLIME Doug! 
We have a lot going on with all the cars so I haven't updated much. This engine is almost ready for the engine dyno so I'll update in the next couple weeks on that.
Here are a couple pics at the machine shop and our new shaft rockers and Camshaft innovations cam.
AWESOME Doug!!!!
Here is a Booger update:
Took all the suspension, lines, driveshaft loop and everything else out of the car to give it a good cleaning and overhaul after 2 years of abuse.
Ended up finding all the rod ens in the control arms and bump steer kit had more wear than I was willing to risk so I replace them all with QA1's top of the line X series rod ends. I sanded all the suspension down a re-painted it all and also rebuilt the front control arms, added grease fittings to the bushings and installed new ball joints.
I also scraped all the old undercoating and seam sealer from the bottom of the car and laid 3 coats of black ceramic paint and new seam sealer to clean it all up.
I replaced the UPR coil over adjusters with a better designed D&D ones, removed the stock '84 spindles and replaced them with SN-95's. I sand blasted and repainted the spindles, hubs and calipers and added drilled and slotted front rotors, some new type of serious brake pads and UPR's braided brake lines.
That's all for now, should be dynoing the engine tomorrow or the next day.
And yes this is a 26 year old car without a spec of rust underneath it.
Took all the suspension, lines, driveshaft loop and everything else out of the car to give it a good cleaning and overhaul after 2 years of abuse.
Ended up finding all the rod ens in the control arms and bump steer kit had more wear than I was willing to risk so I replace them all with QA1's top of the line X series rod ends. I sanded all the suspension down a re-painted it all and also rebuilt the front control arms, added grease fittings to the bushings and installed new ball joints.
I also scraped all the old undercoating and seam sealer from the bottom of the car and laid 3 coats of black ceramic paint and new seam sealer to clean it all up.
I replaced the UPR coil over adjusters with a better designed D&D ones, removed the stock '84 spindles and replaced them with SN-95's. I sand blasted and repainted the spindles, hubs and calipers and added drilled and slotted front rotors, some new type of serious brake pads and UPR's braided brake lines.
That's all for now, should be dynoing the engine tomorrow or the next day.
And yes this is a 26 year old car without a spec of rust underneath it.
3 years ago I paid a friend to wire the car because I wasn't as savvy at wiring as I am now. For what I paid him he did a decent job but when I had to pull the dash for the manual brake install I decided to rewire.......the whole car.
Ripping out the old wiring!!
Re-wiring the dash itself. It's now plug and play. (3) 6 pin connectors, a 2 pin connector, a main power and main ground and the whole dash is in or out. All the switching, guages and igniton control boxes are built right into the dash now with nothing "hard-wired" to the car.
The biggest mistake most people make is not using relays and circuit breakers to run the accessories. Switches are not able to handle the amperage load of most accessories. They should only be used to "switch" the relays on and off. If a system shorts the circuit breaker will disconnect the load from the relay and the switch to keep them from burning up. When the short is fixed the breaker will automatically reset to closed position.
There will be 19 total relays in the car. Here are 4 of them LOL.
Ripping out the old wiring!!
Re-wiring the dash itself. It's now plug and play. (3) 6 pin connectors, a 2 pin connector, a main power and main ground and the whole dash is in or out. All the switching, guages and igniton control boxes are built right into the dash now with nothing "hard-wired" to the car.
The biggest mistake most people make is not using relays and circuit breakers to run the accessories. Switches are not able to handle the amperage load of most accessories. They should only be used to "switch" the relays on and off. If a system shorts the circuit breaker will disconnect the load from the relay and the switch to keep them from burning up. When the short is fixed the breaker will automatically reset to closed position.
There will be 19 total relays in the car. Here are 4 of them LOL.
