What ucas and lcas do you guys run?
- Thread starter AdirondackFox08
- Start date
im running blow by racings billet nonadjustable poly lowers, and a stock upper for now. for a street car, non adjustable lowers and adjustable uppers are not a bad combo. you dont really need the adjustable uppers unless you are having issues with your pinion angle. and you would be better off with poly bushings instead of rod ends seeing as they will be a ton quieter
On my 95 I am running Maximum Motorsports Adj lowers, bad ass man. I am changing the uppers soon as the stock ones are protesting the torque between shifts with a loud clunk.
The lowers are great. But then again the car is a built 5.0 with a KB 2.1 blowzilla. Will let you know how the uppers work.
Irish, he is asking about a 5.0. 1 piece drive shaft, no pinion angle worries and also 2 uppers not one like the s197's. But yeah, adjustable uppers would negate the point, get a upper and lower adjustable's for full control.
The lowers are great. But then again the car is a built 5.0 with a KB 2.1 blowzilla. Will let you know how the uppers work.
Irish, he is asking about a 5.0. 1 piece drive shaft, no pinion angle worries and also 2 uppers not one like the s197's. But yeah, adjustable uppers would negate the point, get a upper and lower adjustable's for full control.
Thanks for both of your answers, I'm actually a bit surprised no one else commented on this who have the foxes.... I won't be getting any lcas or ucas until next summer but I just wanted to get an idea of what ones to get. Yeah I imagined the maximum motorsports control arms are good pieces since they want a pretty penny for them, 
I think you might have answered one of my problems I have been having too. Every now and then when I get on it and shift up higher than normal I hear a loud clunk coming from the rear. The control arms are probably the culprit just by how you described it. Another reason to upgrade them then! Thanks.
I think you might have answered one of my problems I have been having too. Every now and then when I get on it and shift up higher than normal I hear a loud clunk coming from the rear. The control arms are probably the culprit just by how you described it. Another reason to upgrade them then! Thanks.A loud clunk when shifting could be a number of things: 1 loose control arms 2 worn bushings 3 loose driveshaft yoke or universal and last but not least cracked or broken torque boxes (very common on Foxes).
As for control arms, Im using Southside Machine lowers set at -3 deg pinion angle and Ford Motorsport SVO uppers (remember SVO?). My car bites like a pit bull. 1.49 60ft on drag radials with a blown 331.
As for control arms, Im using Southside Machine lowers set at -3 deg pinion angle and Ford Motorsport SVO uppers (remember SVO?). My car bites like a pit bull. 1.49 60ft on drag radials with a blown 331.
My car has Wolfe Racecraft adjutable lowers and UPR torque link uppers with solid mounts. Set up for strip.
My brothers car has UPR adjustable lowers and double adjustable uppers with spherical bushings. We dive the car everywhere. One of the few full weight hatchbacks I know that can yank the wheels on the street.
Team Z, Racecraft, Wolfe Racecraft are probably the best out there.
My brothers car has UPR adjustable lowers and double adjustable uppers with spherical bushings. We dive the car everywhere. One of the few full weight hatchbacks I know that can yank the wheels on the street.
Team Z, Racecraft, Wolfe Racecraft are probably the best out there.
My friend ran consistent 1.4x 60fts back in the day with SSM lowers and the FRPP uppers running Moroso springs with 28" M/T slicks. Another friend had the SSM and I got 1.5x 60fts with 26" slicks when I raced it. The SSM are hard on the torque boxes though and there are better options out there now.