what heads do you guys recommend for my 93 gt?

dsblk93gt

dsblk93gt

5.0 Moderator
#61
#61
stanginthe11s said:
LOL this is my point exactly, everyone says he should buy a set of AFR heads then you can buy a new intake, cam, tb, maf, injectors, pistons, rods, crank and why not buy dart block too , cmon man, really? how about you just buy what will work with what you have , save the 3000$ and make plenty of power and be happy. unless youre pockets are deep enough to build a 10 sec. + car you dont need 1600$ heads, you cant tell me we've been going 11's and 12's for 50 years and now you need all this high dollar stuff.
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I'm into the K-I-S-S approach and have beat aways enjoyed beating cars at the track with WAY more mods and high $$ stuff.

IF you can get a nice set of low mile GT40 heads or GT40P, run 1.7 rockers with the stock cam OR get a custom cam thats the cheapest route.

AFR165 are nice.... TFS are nice ( I had some)...and I still like Edelbrocks eventhough they they don't have the big flow #'s the other guys do. My friend ran 10.81@126 with some 1.90 valve 6037 like I have on my car with a Powerdyne and a NO TUNE.

On a budget...want new heads...? Get these...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5023/

30rwhp over the GT40P and cheap...
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.c..._edelbrock_e_street_cylinder_heads/index.html
 
dsblk93gt

dsblk93gt

5.0 Moderator
#62
#62
JR4 Motorsports said:
There is a fairly large consensus that when using "stock" heads that the HO cam is the one to use. I guess Ford did their homework on that one:awesomework:
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There are guys in the low 10's and high 9's with the stock HO cam and head/intake and SC. Any of the custom cam guys will even tell you that if you are not going to go with a custom cam keep the stock one....Ed Curtis said this and so did Jay Allen. If I had to go with a cam thats OTS I'd get a AFM cam probably. That or if you can find a WG-1087 somewhere.

I ran 11's with stock cam/edelbrock heads/ and the tiny Kenne Bell 1.5 in a 3500 lbs GT back in '01.
 
sbeachstang

sbeachstang

Well-Known Member
#64
#64
dsblk93gt said:
I ran mid 13's with a stock 88LX and slicks and only 3.27 gears/pulleys...they need to hand the keys over and get a driver mod ASAP!

There are guys running LOW 12's with untouched GT40P heads and STOCK cams. The stock cam is 10x better than the wrong cam, but way too many people toss the stock cam out of the equation before they think about it.

Actually there is a guy with a Explorer motor in Corral running 11.9's with a stock HO cam being the only big change.
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I ran 13.70s in this same car (that gt40s and Exp intake where done for) on DRs with stock everything before the swap. I'm saying that not everyone who dumps money into GT40's is money well spent. My buddy has a Jay cam with his VERY MILD 306 with GT40ps and it traps 109mph with 2.73s on street tires in third gear. I totally agree on the stock cam, and with 1.7s. I am familiar with the build on the corral with HO cam and explorer motor, besides tuning the shit out of it never did much more, never had the heads off. I'm just stating tossing a set of used GT40s is not IMO the way to go. A whole explorer motor for $500 if you don't have a motor, sure. If your buying new heads, what I have described is the best route, again IMO.
 
dsblk93gt

dsblk93gt

5.0 Moderator
#65
#65
Killer5.0 said:
i dont have the stock cam...so its the f303 i have or swap it out for a custom one...whats a good custom cam cost roughly?
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If you are on a budget just keep the F-303, its the better of the alphabet cams for sure. With any of the aluminum heads you should make close to 300rwhp or more with a tune. Even with GT40 heads you would have around 280rwhp probably. You technically should have some valve float issue now if those are stock heads, no way the stock springs are going to hold up to that F303's lift.
 
dsblk93gt

dsblk93gt

5.0 Moderator
#67
#67
sbeachstang said:
I ran 13.70s in this same car (that gt40s and Exp intake where done for) on DRs with stock everything before the swap. I'm saying that not everyone who dumps money into GT40's is money well spent. My buddy has a Jay cam with his VERY MILD 306 with GT40ps and it traps 109mph with 2.73s on street tires in third gear. I totally agree on the stock cam, and with 1.7s. I am familiar with the build on the corral with HO cam and explorer motor, besides tuning the shit out of it never did much more, never had the heads off. I'm just stating tossing a set of used GT40s is not IMO the way to go. A whole explorer motor for $500 if you don't have a motor, sure. If your buying new heads, what I have described is the best route, again IMO.
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No, I wouldn't buy some GT40 or GT40P off just anyone with unknown mileage and stick them on. I got a set of GT40's that had upgraded springs and everything for really cheap a few years ago. Most of the GT40P heads on ebay are probably off 140k mile explorers. So I agree with getting new vs. wasting $$ on unknown heads. BUT if you can get a set of known good GT40/GT40P heads they make good power. Another option is the GT40X which can be had CHEAP. A friend of mine got a set for around $600 with low miles on them and they make good power.
 
dsblk93gt

dsblk93gt

5.0 Moderator
#68
#68
I am just a VERY budget oriented person and try and make the most from what I have, I know that there are better things out there. It's just alot of people (like me) can't afford them and have been fast with lesser stuff.
 
K

Killer5.0

Well-Known Member
#71
#71
dsblk93gt said:
If you are on a budget just keep the F-303, its the better of the alphabet cams for sure. With any of the aluminum heads you should make close to 300rwhp or more with a tune. Even with GT40 heads you would have around 280rwhp probably. You technically should have some valve float issue now if those are stock heads, no way the stock springs are going to hold up to that F303's lift.
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valve float issue? right now the only thing i have is it stalls when i decelerate quickly or brake really hard...i think it may be a vaccuum leak but...im new to motor work so im not sure what a valve float issue is..lol
 
stanginthe11s

stanginthe11s

Well-Known Member
#72
#72
dsblk93 has the right idea, my gt40 combos make well over 300 rwhp and no I dont have to put new valves in or rebuild the heads or do any of that crazy stuff you guys think have to be done to make power, its called matching the parts and knowing what to do. If all you want is 12's then all you need is a stock motor with stock heads and cam, but hey, if spending 6k on a 12 sec motor makes you happy then who am I to tell you otherwise. posts like this make me want to do killers motor for free just to show how little it takes to make power, I am baffled on how you guys figure it takes all this head when us older guys have been doing this for 50 years. I am just trying to help those who want it, if you cant see past the glitter then I guess im done.
 
sbeachstang

sbeachstang

Well-Known Member
#74
#74
stanginthe11s said:
dsblk93 has the right idea, my gt40 combos make well over 300 rwhp and no I dont have to put new valves in or rebuild the heads or do any of that crazy stuff you guys think have to be done to make power, its called matching the parts and knowing what to do. If all you want is 12's then all you need is a stock motor with stock heads and cam, but hey, if spending 6k on a 12 sec motor makes you happy then who am I to tell you otherwise. posts like this make me want to do killers motor for free just to show how little it takes to make power, I am baffled on how you guys figure it takes all this head when us older guys have been doing this for 50 years. I am just trying to help those who want it, if you cant see past the glitter then I guess im done.
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Where is anyone telling him to put $6000 into a motor to go 12's? $1350 for NEW TW's, about $250 for a custom cam, right pushrods, and a timing chain. Doing a valve job and a mill on 100k heads is crazy stuff???? You're telling him to put a set of used/ unknown gt40s on the car, are you going to pay for whatever breaks or work needed to the heads if he buys used and gets screwed? I've bought too many used parts from dishonest people to reccomend buying used junk without seeing it , especially to someone that might not know what they are looking at. I've gone 12's with junk plenty of times before, big deal. Ive had 3 deep 12 second cars with worked 289 heads 10.9s on 175 shot. I had to put $350 into one set of 289 heads I ALREADY had, with bigger valves ALREADY installed and did porting myself, wasted money. Does that mean everyone can do it? NO! Nothing wrong aith making horsepower for cheap, but for someone new and inexperienced It's easier to do it right the first time, and not pay for stuff 2 or 3 times over. Why not just buy a car that goes fast, cheaper in the long run:rolleyes:
 
sbeachstang

sbeachstang

Well-Known Member
#75
#75
And what cam are you recommending with these GT40s? You said matched parts. He already has stock heads with a cam, and doesn't go 12's I'm sure. What does he "need to know what to do" to get those 12s?
 
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J

JR4 Motorsports

Member Plus
#76
#76
Hey all, lets keep this civil. Forums are all about sharing and discussing :)

I am not doubting GT40 will get 400HP, but it does require work making sure everything is matched. Like I said above, if you have the tools, time, and knowledge, then you can work the heads yourself. if you have to pay for all of that, then I still think new is better. The class racers and others who have to use iron can get it done, but it does cost. And why not buy for the future. I think heads are one of the places where you can get bigger and 'grow' into them as needed. This is where a custom cam comes into play. It can be designed to work with the heads and other parts you now have. in the future should you decide on a bigger intake, stroker kit, or anything else, the heads will still work. The cam most likely will have to be changed. Stock heads on anything other then a 302 are a waste, in my opinion.
 
K

Killer5.0

Well-Known Member
#77
#77
thanks all for the input...yes i do not know alot about motor work...mostly have spent my time on my other cars with custom stereo etc so the motor work is new to me...i plan on keeping this car for a while which is why i want to do it right with new stuff im not buying used stuff. thank you for trying to save me a few hundred dollars but its not worth it if i have a problem and have to have the whole thing torn down again or something. im not tracking or dragging the car this is simply a street car...i may take it a few times over the course of its life to the strip to see what it runs but thats not my main goal...i really do appreciate ALL the input ive been getting...thanks again
 
stanginthe11s

stanginthe11s

Well-Known Member
#80
#80
I think everyone is taking what Im saying wrong, Im all for new and good parts but you really have to know when and where to spend the money. It makes no sense to spend 1500 on big heads that will never work with your combo just because you may someday want to do more work, there is no cam on this earth that will make wrong heads work correctly. It seems to be the popular thing these days to look to the cam to fix all problems, but its just not possible. everyone is under this big misconception that all kinds of work has to be done to a set of heads to make them good, the reality of it is iron heads require hardly any extra work at all and in fact its aluminum heads that really have to be gone over. you need to understand that iron heads dont have valve guides that wear like you think, theyre not bronze theyre cast and harder than bronze so 150k miles is not going to do anything to them, as far as milling them iron heads dont warp like aluminum so its not likely an issue but even if you wanted to its only about 60$ to mill heads. If you think you need a valve job then you must be expecting that theres a bad valve, not likely but hey if you go to pick up the heads just spray carb cleaner in the ports and if they dont leak the valve job is not needed. as long as guys expect the worse thing will be hard for them, each combo has an exact part that will make the most power without having to change anything and thats it, theres no such thing as one size fits all in engine building and that includes heads so that means you cant just throw afr 180 on every motor from a 289 to 408, itll never work right.
 
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