(86 carbd 5.0 notch) I haven't looked into an engine at all, the most I've done so far is taken off a carb and intake lol... Plans for this spring are possible bore/stroke of the stock 302 block, WG1087 cam, and trans rebuild with small stuff along the way. I know basically nothing about limitations and what I'm getting into, so I'm just starting to look for information, I need a new rear-main seal so I have to pull my trans (needs new synchros, and put in a short shifter while I'm at it), and I'm trying to get a good base for a strong running car. Not sure what a 306 is capable of (302 bored .4 over i think right?), but I'm sure I could get 400hp out of a 347 not too difficult but that'd require a lot more new parts (No idea what exactly...). I think I have a bad motor mount as it rocks pretty hard under throttle, so I'll probably pull the motor out and while I'm at it I think a .3/.4 bore is 300$ or so? In the end I'm trying to get a 306, WG1087 Cam, worked and ported gt40p (2.01 int+1.6ex), edelbrock intake with a holley 650 carb, and 3.73's, with a borg warner t5 trans. I have forged internals so I've been told (from an 89 gt), and eventually plan on nos and farther down the road a turbo or S/C... I haven't really dug into a motor but am capable of learning... What am I getting myself into and what would I need if i bored a 302 to a 306 compared to making a stroker 347? Would a WG1087 still be an appropriate cam for the 306 and 347/ any E/Ts? (I know nothing about rockers, and lifters and stuff that I should know by now lol)...
Engine "guts" and bore?
- Thread starter FiveOh 86LX
- Start date
A 306 is a 302 bored over .30. I wouldn't get it bored over unless it needs it. It really depends on what your budget is. A 347 would need a new rotating assembly, plus all of the machine work, and a good h/c/i with the supporting mods. Do you already have the ported gt40p heads or were you thinking about getting it done to them? You might want to see how much you are looking at for the work on those heads, because you might be better off getting some used aluminum heads, or saving up for some new ones.
As of now I have ported gt40p heads, I don't really need to bore it but I just thought now would be time if I had it all apart, maybe for now I should just stick a top end rebuild and a WG1087 cam... I hear there are different WG1087 cams (one for EFI and one for carb'd??). Right now it runs but needs some work, burns a little oil, and it leaves some funky oilish residue on the back bumper/tailgate (good thing the paints flat black lol). Not sure what it could be. But plenty of things to keep me busy, main concern should be fixing the burning oil/oil leak and radiator fluid leak (need a new radiator)...
Just a quick couple of questions for you how many miles do you have on the motor right now and are you burning a little or a lot of oil? If your burning oil its probably time for a rebuild. Depending if you need rebuild or not your machine shop should tell you if the motor needs to be bored or not. Also if your rebuilding your going to need new cam bearings. Make sure you fine a good machine shop.
The car went through two people before me, guy #1 who built the motor put about 15k miles on it then sold it to guy #2 who put (he said atleast) 3k miles then bought a GT and then I ended up buying this one off of him. Body I think is 120k or 140k, no rust besides bubbles on the trunk lid so I'm happy. As of how much oil I'm burning I'm not really sure. It leaks a lot more than i want a week for oil, about 1 quart every week and a half from the rear main (as time goes on it seems to be getting worse). Also leaks some radiator fluid (would run almost dry in about a month or a little more). Not sure what the residue on the back bumper/tailgate is, it kinda splotches/spotty looking and to the touch is feels oily/greasy. I have Dumps right before the rear axle so I'm not sure if it is the exhaust? Don't remember the rear end leaking... How much would it cost for someone to bore it over and press in new cam bearings? I feel like I'm getting in over my head and maybe I'd want to take off my heads and intake+carb and then look for another block... But then again mine has forged internals, no idea how much work is involved in swapping the internals and what not over....
The people who owned it before me obviously put it through its paces (first time I opened the glove box there were at least 30-35 drag slips), If it has been beat that hard would seals internally be shot already? I pulled off a valve cover and looked at one of the rocker arms and it seemed BURNT, covered in like a black sootish color, the rest of the rockers look new. Not sure if that means anything, engine doesn't sound funny, could it not be getting oil and already have a clog somewhere?